Seven days in Tokyo, crossed from the old east side to the towers in the west. Asakusa first, then the centre, a day out to Kamakura, Shibuya and Shinjuku — one paid view, and one hour left unclaimed.
Tokyo's oldest temple. The grounds never close — arrive before the shops on the approach open.
634 metres and visible from almost everywhere today. Better looked at than looked from — save the paid view for Shibuya.
Moat, stone walls and lawn in the exact centre of the city. Free. Check the closing days first.
The orange-and-white one, from 1958. Still the landmark for working out where you are.
Cross it once at street level outside the Hachikō exit. Then go up and watch it from above.
Free observation decks at 202 metres. On a clear evening the whole week is laid out below you.
33 places on this route, grouped the way the days are.
Tokyo's oldest temple. The grounds never close — arrive before the shops on the approach open.
The long view of Japanese art in one building. Check the weekly closing day.
A tunnel of small red torii without the crowds of the famous ones. Azaleas in April.
Moat, stone walls and lawn in the exact centre of the city. Free. Check the closing days first.
The red-brick front from 1914. Look at it from the plaza before you go underground.
A temple gate with Tokyo Tower standing directly behind it. The photograph everyone wants is free.
A shrine inside a planted forest. Go early, when the gravel path is the only sound.
Thirteenth-century bronze, sitting in the open air. Smaller than you expect, and better.
Hillside temple with a view over the bay. Pair it with the Great Buddha — they are a short walk apart.
A lane of tiny grill counters beside the station's west side. Sit where there is a seat.
The basement floor of a department store. Assemble dinner here once, in pieces.
Ticket machine, counter, five minutes. The most reliable cheap meal in the city.
The snack street from the station toward the shrine. Graze, then get off it.
634 metres and visible from almost everywhere today. Better looked at than looked from — save the paid view for Shibuya.
The orange-and-white one, from 1958. Still the landmark for working out where you are.
The one paid view on this route: an open rooftop directly above the crossing. Book the slot before sunset well ahead.
Free observation decks at 202 metres. On a clear evening the whole week is laid out below you.
Central, quiet at night, one train from almost everything. Neighborhood only — never post the address.
Low buildings, old shopfronts, the river two streets away. Walk it before breakfast.
Old-Tokyo streets that survived. Wooden houses, a cemetery of cherry trees, one shopping lane.
The tree-lined avenue down from the shrine. Architecture on both sides; walk it, don't shop it.
Cross it once at street level outside the Hachikō exit. Then go up and watch it from above.
Museums, a pond, and the city's most crowded cherry trees. Cross it; don't try to finish it.
A large formal garden with a small entry fee. The quiet hour before Shinjuku. Check the closing day.
The walk from the temple to the tower. Take the bridge on foot.
Knives, bowls, plastic food models. Many shops close on Sundays — check before you go.
One short lane of shops and croquette counters. Late afternoon, when the light comes down the steps.
One tap card for trains, subways and most convenience stores. A phone-wallet version works too.
The loop that connects most of this route. Learn which direction is which on the first day.
About an hour on the JR Yokosuka Line, no change. Leave early; come back before the evening rush.
Haneda is close; Narita is not. Check which airport you land at before planning the first evening.
A guided walk early in the week pays for itself in orientation. Keep the group small.
They come off at temples and some restaurants. Laces get old by the third day.
Day by day. Fork the trip and every note comes with it.
Set up the IC card before you leave the airport. Save the lodging address offline, in Japanese as well as English.
Find the nearest station entrance, convenience store and late dinner. That is the whole job today.
Nothing ticketed on Day 1. Sleep at the local hour.
Start on the old east side. The approach is empty and the incense is already going.
Skip it if today is Sunday.
About twenty minutes over the bridge. Look up at the tower; don't go up it.
Two hours, one building. Confirm the closing day before you set out.
No list for this hour. Follow whichever lane is quietest.
Confirm it is open today — it has regular closing days.
Buy dinner in pieces.
Stay until the tower lights come on.
Check the current JR timetable the night before.
The west side starts in a forest.
Nothing booked until the rooftop. Protect it.
The one paid view of the week. Book it before you fly.
Confirm it is open today.
Early, before the lane fills.
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